Varasano's

I checked out Varasano’s in Buckhead just to make sure my assessment of Fritti having the best pizza in Atlanta was accurate. I’m proud to say that it was. I got the same exact thing at Varasano’s that I’ve gotten a couple of times at Fritti – Caesar salad and salumi and olive pizza. The Caesar at Varasano’s was okay, but lacked the tangy bite prevalent in the Fritti salad. As for the pizza, the salumi was tasty (but when isn’t it?), the olives were a bit too pungent and I could have used more cheese. The crust, though, is where I really had an issue. It was essentially charred, so every bite was overpowered by the taste of burnt dough. The pie was also on the greasy side. Overall, the flavors just did not balance out well for me. It wasn’t horrible, but definitely does not hold a candle to Fritti.

As for the ambiance and decor, it was definitely very Buckhead. Minimalist, sleek and subtle. While I’ve complained before about the elbow-to-elbow seating and chaotic raucous of Fritti, it definitely feels more like an authentic pizzeria experience than Varasano’s.